Crime fiction writer Ian Rankin once described Edinburgh as “a city the size of a town that feels like a village”. Certainly, this UNESCO-recognised World Heritage Site offers both the cool cosmopolitan delights of a capital city – a hub for culture, education and high-tech startups – alongside more homely aspects of village life. It’s also an eminently walkable city in terms of scale – as long as you don’t mind climbing steep hills, that is!
8:00
Start your day by climbing Calton Hill; though not the highest of “Edinburgh’s Seven Hills”, it offers undoubtedly the most iconic views of the city centre – including the medieval Old Town and Georgian New Town.
9:00
Head down to a relatively recent (1996) Edinburgh institution, the Italian delicatessen Valvona & Crolla, on Elm Row. Here you can select ingredients for an al fresco breakfast, or eat in the cafe towards the rear.
11:00
Even ignoring the wonderful neo-gothic delights of the building, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery on Queen Street provides a wonderful opportunity to see Scotland’s past and present – face-to-face! Free entry.
12:00
During its 1,100 year history, Edinburgh Castle became the most besieged place in Britain, and remains popular with millions of visitors. Home to “Scotland’s Crown Jewels”, entry is free on St Andrew’s Day, 30 November.
15:00
After visiting the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, the faithful 19th century Skye terrier which sat watch over his master’s grave for 14 years, check out the numerous boutique shops and restaurants in “Greater Grassmarket”.
17:00
From Dean Village, a gentle walk alongside the Water of Leith – passing the mock circular Roman temple marking St Bernard’s Well – brings you to the homely “village” of Stockbridge with numerous small shops and restaurants.
19:00
After dark in November, Edinburgh’s Royal Botanic Gardens are transformed into a magical 1.5km Botanic Lights trail by the careful illumination of plants, paths and selected buildings. 90 minute slots bookable between 17:00 and 20:30.
21:00
In his unusually named 21212 restaurant, Michelin-starred chef Paul Kitching provides a weekly changing menu of delightfully produced food within the immaculate and elegant surroundings of a “Listed” Georgian townhouse restaurant. Reservations recommended.
22:00
Loved by musicians and audiences alike, Sandy Bell’s has helped keep traditional folk music alive in the capital for more than half a century, with nightly free performances by musicians from Ireland, Scotland, and elsewhere.
GETTING AROUND
Walk
Central Edinburgh is sufficiently compact that walking is genuinely the easiest way of getting around; however, some Old and New Town streets are particularly steep.
Bus
Lothian Buses comprehensively cover the whole city as well as routes into East Lothian and Midlothian. Single flat fare £1.50 (adult); day ticket £4.00 (adult).
Trams
A single tram route now links Edinburgh International Airport with the city centre, albeit not via a particularly picturesque route. Return £8 (adult), £4 (child).
First published in Oryx Magazine, November 2015, and available to read online here.
